MIN. lift for 33's on 1st gen pathfinder?

Parnelli_001 · July 18th, 2003, 11:52 pm

what am i looking at for 33s? probably 3inch body and ford rear coils and torsion crank front? or is she still gonna scuff on flex and such? for me its hard to justify a $1000

lift kit for an IFS only to gain a little in actual ground clearance, so i am looking at other options. are the 30% stiffer torsion bars worth the price? any good dealers of this equipment found in BC?

yoshi · July 20th, 2003, 11:23 pm

On my pathfinder i cranked the torsion bars up lots. I took the 2 bolts on each A-arm out and replaced it with little bit longer ones then used like 4 or 5 washers(per bolt) as spacers too keep my camber alined on the front tires. in the back i had old chevy coils that were stiffer then stock nissan coils that i put in.

That with a 3" body lift and inner fender trim worked great for 33" tires

and only cost.

$120 body lift
$15 metric bolts and washers
$20 auto wrecker coils

Parnelli_001 · July 21st, 2003, 01:07 am

now that sounds redneck, i LIKE IT... once i grab the coils you'll see me with that setup soon. lol

yoshi · July 21st, 2003, 12:56 pm

don't forget to disconnect all the sway bars. LoL

Parnelli_001 · July 21st, 2003, 01:02 pm

disconnect what sway bar? front was the first to go about a year ago, rear i might need to fab something for... sounds like we are on the same redneck wavelength

chrizza · August 19th, 2003, 02:52 am

hey guys, i got a pathy too, i want to also stick some 33's on it, but i require the lift first. I am pretty much an amature with this lifting stuff, so just a few questions.

How much did you crank the torsion bars? and The A arm bolts, whered you get longer ones to replace them?

As for the chevy springs, How do i swap these in, Do i just remove the nissan ones and stick em in place? and thats it? Is there anything i need to do to it before?

Thanks for the help

chris

Parnelli_001 · August 19th, 2003, 12:39 pm

torsion crank depends on what a-arms you end up getting/fabbing. if you dont touch the suspension but crank the torsion bars up 1-1.5" your ride will be stiffer but your front with a little less down travel. if you crank your front to fit 33s,,, help me out here, 4-5" crank?? if thats possible your front wont rebound at all, ride will be crap, tires will disappear in front of your eyes.
for the rear, i believe its ford coils you get, out of the front of a v-6 f-100 is ideal and that is what, 3" of lift? longer shocks and coils and your set for the rear, just the front is the toughy.
i just touched on these subjects because i havent done either yet, maybe someone who has been there and got the t-shirt will shed more light?

Dean Neumann · August 19th, 2003, 10:50 pm

When you do the 3" suspension lift you also need to check that you have enough slack in all the lines that go from the chassis to the axles or wheels so that they don't bind. That means your brake lines, emergency brake cable, axle vent tubes, etc. must all be long enough to remain slack at full suspension droop or maximum rear axle articulation after lifting it 3", and if they bind you need to replace them with longer lines or install limiting straps.

Similarly, when you do the 3" body lift you need to check that you have enough slack in all the hard and soft lines that go from the body to the chassis so that they don't bind. That means the steel brake lines, the shift linkage, the fuel lines, the gas filler neck, the radiator hoses, the heater hoses, the steering column, etc. If they aren't long enough to reach you need to lengthen them.

If you choose to go "redneck" and put bolts and a bunch of washers in your A arms to correct the camber, be aware that ICBC can consider this a safety-related steering & suspension modification and may not cover you if you have an accident as a result of anything related to your steering or suspension.
A better option is to spend the money and buy aftermarket control arms from a reputable supplier that warrants their product as being specifically designed to correct the steering geometry with a 3" suspension lift.

Parnelli_001 · August 21st, 2003, 01:04 am

thanks dean, i was hoping you would chime up, did you go to that nissan event in alberta last weekend?

Dean Neumann · August 21st, 2003, 09:16 pm

nope, didn't drive 1000 km last weekend to go to a truck show :-)

clenchedtuna · August 25th, 2003, 10:00 am

We had the Nissan Weekend open last week...was there another event in Alberta?

The 1st annual Nissan Only was a blast. Fantastic trails, (only a few flops on the difficult run,) but the stockers and slightly modified runs were great too. Had a blindfold course run which was humerous to drive and spectate and a night run which was also alot of fun. The write up will be in Canada 4WD in the next few months.

Dean, did you get the t-case gears?

Dean Neumann · August 25th, 2003, 04:35 pm

nope... transfer case gears don't even make it into the the top 5 on my to do list. I'll do a bunch of other stuff first, including that long travel bulletproof IFS.

Bill · August 25th, 2003, 05:11 pm

Quote:

Originally posted by Dean Neumann
If you choose to go "redneck" and put bolts and a bunch of washers in your A arms to correct the camber, be aware that ICBC can consider this a safety-related steering & suspension modification and may not cover you if you have an accident as a result of anything related to your steering or suspension.
A better option is to spend the money and buy aftermarket control arms from a reputable supplier that warrants their product as being specifically designed to correct the steering geometry with a 3" suspension lift.

A similar method, with the use of shims is used to align many different vehicles. I wouldn't consider it to be unsafe unless you're talking like 1/2" or more.

yoshi · August 25th, 2003, 07:31 pm

If your so worried about getting in an accident and having washers in the a-arm bolts you shouldent be driving at all or better yet dont hit anything

. and if we all were rich we wouldent need to find ways of lifting the pathy for cheap

July 18th, 2003, 11:52 pm	#1
Parnelli_001 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Kamloops, BC Posts: 1,115	MIN. lift for 33's on 1st gen pathfinder? what am i looking at for 33s? probably 3inch body and ford rear coils and torsion crank front? or is she still gonna scuff on flex and such? for me its hard to justify a $1000 lift kit for an IFS only to gain a little in actual ground clearance, so i am looking at other options. are the 30% stiffer torsion bars worth the price? any good dealers of this equipment found in BC? __________________ Back down to a nissan frontier, rear locker, too stock for any fun but is fun to dent.

July 20th, 2003, 11:23 pm	#2
yoshi Soon to live in a box downtown in a alley Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: South delta Posts: 444	On my pathfinder i cranked the torsion bars up lots. I took the 2 bolts on each A-arm out and replaced it with little bit longer ones then used like 4 or 5 washers(per bolt) as spacers too keep my camber alined on the front tires. in the back i had old chevy coils that were stiffer then stock nissan coils that i put in. That with a 3" body lift and inner fender trim worked great for 33" tires and only cost. $120 body lift $15 metric bolts and washers $20 auto wrecker coils __________________ Old truck1991 Nissan Pathfinder on 36" swamper SX Solid axle conversion Dana 44 front w/5.38 and locked Ford 9" rear w/5.43 and a posi 5.0 mustang HO motor New truck 1993 Ranger xlt 4L 5speed Dana44 disc / Ford 9" 37" boggers Newest Truck 1986 GMC 1 Ton 350/SM465/NP205 Dana 60 front/14 Bolt rear duel tanks/duel batts. Flat deck Maybe 40" soon

July 21st, 2003, 01:07 am	#3
Parnelli_001 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Kamloops, BC Posts: 1,115	now that sounds redneck, i LIKE IT... once i grab the coils you'll see me with that setup soon. lol __________________ Back down to a nissan frontier, rear locker, too stock for any fun but is fun to dent.

July 21st, 2003, 12:56 pm	#4
yoshi Soon to live in a box downtown in a alley Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: South delta Posts: 444	don't forget to disconnect all the sway bars. LoL __________________ Old truck1991 Nissan Pathfinder on 36" swamper SX Solid axle conversion Dana 44 front w/5.38 and locked Ford 9" rear w/5.43 and a posi 5.0 mustang HO motor New truck 1993 Ranger xlt 4L 5speed Dana44 disc / Ford 9" 37" boggers Newest Truck 1986 GMC 1 Ton 350/SM465/NP205 Dana 60 front/14 Bolt rear duel tanks/duel batts. Flat deck Maybe 40" soon

July 21st, 2003, 01:02 pm	#5
Parnelli_001 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Kamloops, BC Posts: 1,115	disconnect what sway bar? front was the first to go about a year ago, rear i might need to fab something for... sounds like we are on the same redneck wavelength __________________ Back down to a nissan frontier, rear locker, too stock for any fun but is fun to dent.

August 19th, 2003, 02:52 am	#6
chrizza Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Port Coquitlam Posts: 65	questions hey guys, i got a pathy too, i want to also stick some 33's on it, but i require the lift first. I am pretty much an amature with this lifting stuff, so just a few questions. How much did you crank the torsion bars? and The A arm bolts, whered you get longer ones to replace them? As for the chevy springs, How do i swap these in, Do i just remove the nissan ones and stick em in place? and thats it? Is there anything i need to do to it before? Thanks for the help chris

August 19th, 2003, 12:39 pm	#7
Parnelli_001 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Kamloops, BC Posts: 1,115	torsion crank depends on what a-arms you end up getting/fabbing. if you dont touch the suspension but crank the torsion bars up 1-1.5" your ride will be stiffer but your front with a little less down travel. if you crank your front to fit 33s,,, help me out here, 4-5" crank?? if thats possible your front wont rebound at all, ride will be crap, tires will disappear in front of your eyes. for the rear, i believe its ford coils you get, out of the front of a v-6 f-100 is ideal and that is what, 3" of lift? longer shocks and coils and your set for the rear, just the front is the toughy. i just touched on these subjects because i havent done either yet, maybe someone who has been there and got the t-shirt will shed more light? __________________ Back down to a nissan frontier, rear locker, too stock for any fun but is fun to dent.

August 19th, 2003, 10:50 pm	#8
Dean Neumann Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 109	When you do the 3" suspension lift you also need to check that you have enough slack in all the lines that go from the chassis to the axles or wheels so that they don't bind. That means your brake lines, emergency brake cable, axle vent tubes, etc. must all be long enough to remain slack at full suspension droop or maximum rear axle articulation after lifting it 3", and if they bind you need to replace them with longer lines or install limiting straps. Similarly, when you do the 3" body lift you need to check that you have enough slack in all the hard and soft lines that go from the body to the chassis so that they don't bind. That means the steel brake lines, the shift linkage, the fuel lines, the gas filler neck, the radiator hoses, the heater hoses, the steering column, etc. If they aren't long enough to reach you need to lengthen them. If you choose to go "redneck" and put bolts and a bunch of washers in your A arms to correct the camber, be aware that ICBC can consider this a safety-related steering & suspension modification and may not cover you if you have an accident as a result of anything related to your steering or suspension. A better option is to spend the money and buy aftermarket control arms from a reputable supplier that warrants their product as being specifically designed to correct the steering geometry with a 3" suspension lift. __________________ locked Pathfinder on 32's.

August 21st, 2003, 01:04 am	#9
Parnelli_001 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Kamloops, BC Posts: 1,115	thanks dean, i was hoping you would chime up, did you go to that nissan event in alberta last weekend? __________________ Back down to a nissan frontier, rear locker, too stock for any fun but is fun to dent.

August 21st, 2003, 09:16 pm	#10
Dean Neumann Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 109	nope, didn't drive 1000 km last weekend to go to a truck show :-) __________________ locked Pathfinder on 32's.

August 25th, 2003, 10:00 am	#11
clenchedtuna Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Calgary Posts: 47	We had the Nissan Weekend open last week...was there another event in Alberta? The 1st annual Nissan Only was a blast. Fantastic trails, (only a few flops on the difficult run,) but the stockers and slightly modified runs were great too. Had a blindfold course run which was humerous to drive and spectate and a night run which was also alot of fun. The write up will be in Canada 4WD in the next few months. Dean, did you get the t-case gears?

August 25th, 2003, 04:35 pm	#12
Dean Neumann Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 109	nope... transfer case gears don't even make it into the the top 5 on my to do list. I'll do a bunch of other stuff first, including that long travel bulletproof IFS. __________________ locked Pathfinder on 32's.

August 25th, 2003, 07:31 pm	#14
yoshi Soon to live in a box downtown in a alley Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: South delta Posts: 444	If your so worried about getting in an accident and having washers in the a-arm bolts you shouldent be driving at all or better yet dont hit anything . and if we all were rich we wouldent need to find ways of lifting the pathy for cheap __________________ Old truck1991 Nissan Pathfinder on 36" swamper SX Solid axle conversion Dana 44 front w/5.38 and locked Ford 9" rear w/5.43 and a posi 5.0 mustang HO motor New truck 1993 Ranger xlt 4L 5speed Dana44 disc / Ford 9" 37" boggers Newest Truck 1986 GMC 1 Ton 350/SM465/NP205 Dana 60 front/14 Bolt rear duel tanks/duel batts. Flat deck Maybe 40" soon

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