Land Rover Rebuild - Page 2

Land Roving · September 24th, 2009, 12:27 am

A) Yes, the (1968) Midget has indeed been parked since '83. After the Rover is finished, I have two bikes I need to finish and THEN it's the MG's turn. At least it'll be low mileage! It's actually in half decent shape. Sometime after that, when I finally get the courage to pull out the Jag's V12, I might get that finished too. But one thing at a time.

B) Discos aren't bad at all... it's just a shame we never got the cool 200tdi diesel models here. Leather, heated seats, sunroofs and 30+ mpg sounds pretty damn good to me right now.

Land Roving · September 26th, 2009, 06:04 pm

Alright. Cranked out some more junk today. I think I'm finally reaching the point where this is becoming less fun and more like work. But hey, progress is progress.

I epoxied and riveted 1/16" aluminum down on top of the floor ad seatboxes before I seam sealed and bedlinered it. It's ridiculously solid now, and a lot less tinny. Should make it a bit quieter overall. And, no more galvanic corrosion!

The bedliner on the inside is purely for additional sound deadening. I'm laying down jute and carpet.

HOLY ****, YOU CAN TELL WHAT IT IS! The galvanized body cladding is at Silver City right now, and should be back next week.

It sits a little high, but I'm sure the springs will settle out a bit after some driving around. I just hope they don't settle out too much. The black stuff on the rear crossmember is more truck bedliner to serve as a barrier between the aluminum body and steel frame. Yes, it's overkill (there's already galvanizing, cold galvanizing paint, and Krylon between the two), but whatever.

So, with the bed currently waiting on galvanized junk and wiring that I didn't feel like sorting out just yet, it was time to hack out the passenger side footwell.

A typical spot for rust on old Land Rovers. Mine was alright, but I'll be coating the door post with POR-15 once I'm finished by taping off the holes, filling the post, and then draining it out the bottom.

And through photo magic, it was just that easy! It actually wasn't hard after I'd ground out all the old steel. Just a lot of short beads to try and keep the sucker from warping. As it was, I did have to tweak the door post a bit.

Seal sealer is my friend, especially when it was free. Lordco guy couldn't find the part number for it, and literally said **** it, it's free. I still need to make a patch for the gaping hole by the transmission tunnel, but that shouldn't be too hard... and will make a nice morning project for tomorrow!

83LB · October 19th, 2009, 12:00 am

That frame looks ex$$pen$$$ive. Nice build.

seatosky · October 19th, 2009, 02:03 pm

Ok, now I'm more interested in the M3

Land Roving · November 4th, 2009, 03:24 pm

Hahahah... yeah... that M3 was a lot of fun. Drove it for a week and damn near bankrupted myself on premium gas.

Anywho, here's where I am lately:

Bulkhead repair went well. It's not a factory replica by any stretch; too much of the original bulkhead was gone already, and I didn't feel like adding new door posts as well, just to get factory-correct spot welds. The door posts were filled with POR-15 (excess was drained out of the bottom) to coat the insides completely, the footwells coated in truck bedliner inside and out for durability and sound deadening, and all visible surfaces zinc painted, primed and painted. Oh, and PLENTY of seam sealer used under it all.

Galvanized body cappings back from Silver City and riveted on... with a flippin' ton of pop rivets.

It's coming together.

And this is just a sort of side project. As you can see from the back lug nuts/drive flange bolts, the original hardware rusts pretty quick. So, I figured I'd try my hand and parkerizing. Did the front end hardware and bulkhead vent pins, and am 100% pleased with the result. Shouldn't rust, retains lubricant, and doesn't chip off like paint or anything. And it suits the military theme to boot.

Kinslayer · November 4th, 2009, 03:42 pm

hey I have a question.. all this work and you're retaining drum brakes in the front?

Land Roving · November 4th, 2009, 04:02 pm

Naw. The kits are prohibitively expensive, and I don't want to take the time to fab up my own. Not yet, anyways. They're ridiculously easy to access, to if I want to fit discs later, it's not too hard to do.

That said, I've had no trouble with properly cared for drums.

September 24th, 2009, 12:27 am	#16
Land Roving Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 23	Re: Land Rover Rebuild A) Yes, the (1968) Midget has indeed been parked since '83. After the Rover is finished, I have two bikes I need to finish and THEN it's the MG's turn. At least it'll be low mileage! It's actually in half decent shape. Sometime after that, when I finally get the courage to pull out the Jag's V12, I might get that finished too. But one thing at a time. B) Discos aren't bad at all... it's just a shame we never got the cool 200tdi diesel models here. Leather, heated seats, sunroofs and 30+ mpg sounds pretty damn good to me right now.

September 26th, 2009, 06:04 pm	#17
Land Roving Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 23	Re: Land Rover Rebuild Alright. Cranked out some more junk today. I think I'm finally reaching the point where this is becoming less fun and more like work. But hey, progress is progress. I epoxied and riveted 1/16" aluminum down on top of the floor ad seatboxes before I seam sealed and bedlinered it. It's ridiculously solid now, and a lot less tinny. Should make it a bit quieter overall. And, no more galvanic corrosion! The bedliner on the inside is purely for additional sound deadening. I'm laying down jute and carpet. HOLY **, YOU CAN TELL WHAT IT IS! The galvanized body cladding is at Silver City right now, and should be back next week. It sits a little high, but I'm sure the springs will settle out a bit after some driving around. I just hope they don't settle out too much. The black stuff on the rear crossmember is more truck bedliner to serve as a barrier between the aluminum body and steel frame. Yes, it's overkill (there's already galvanizing, cold galvanizing paint, and Krylon between the two), but whatever. So, with the bed currently waiting on galvanized junk and wiring that I didn't feel like sorting out just yet, it was time to hack out the passenger side footwell. A typical spot for rust on old Land Rovers. Mine was alright, but I'll be coating the door post with POR-15 once I'm finished by taping off the holes, filling the post, and then draining it out the bottom. And through photo magic, it was just that easy! It actually wasn't hard after I'd ground out all the old steel. Just a lot of short beads to try and keep the sucker from warping. As it was, I did have to tweak the door post a bit. Seal sealer is my friend, especially when it was free. Lordco guy couldn't find the part number for it, and literally said ** it, it's free. I still need to make a patch for the gaping hole by the transmission tunnel, but that shouldn't be too hard... and will make a nice morning project for tomorrow!

October 19th, 2009, 12:00 am	#18
83LB Silverback Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Penticton Posts: 865	Re: Land Rover Rebuild That frame looks ex$$pen$$$ive. Nice build. __________________ 83 Toyota 4x4 in process, scattered in pieces across the garagemahal! Link http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=141969

October 19th, 2009, 02:03 pm	#19
seatosky the techie jeeper Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: North Shore Posts: 378	Re: Land Rover Rebuild Ok, now I'm more interested in the M3 __________________ 2005 LJ Unlimited Past Jeeps: 1993 XJ Sport 1994 YJ Sahara

November 4th, 2009, 03:24 pm	#20
Land Roving Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 23	Re: Land Rover Rebuild Hahahah... yeah... that M3 was a lot of fun. Drove it for a week and damn near bankrupted myself on premium gas. Anywho, here's where I am lately: Bulkhead repair went well. It's not a factory replica by any stretch; too much of the original bulkhead was gone already, and I didn't feel like adding new door posts as well, just to get factory-correct spot welds. The door posts were filled with POR-15 (excess was drained out of the bottom) to coat the insides completely, the footwells coated in truck bedliner inside and out for durability and sound deadening, and all visible surfaces zinc painted, primed and painted. Oh, and PLENTY of seam sealer used under it all. Galvanized body cappings back from Silver City and riveted on... with a flippin' ton of pop rivets. It's coming together. And this is just a sort of side project. As you can see from the back lug nuts/drive flange bolts, the original hardware rusts pretty quick. So, I figured I'd try my hand and parkerizing. Did the front end hardware and bulkhead vent pins, and am 100% pleased with the result. Shouldn't rust, retains lubricant, and doesn't chip off like paint or anything. And it suits the military theme to boot.

November 4th, 2009, 03:42 pm	#21
Kinslayer Silverback Join Date: May 2003 Location: PoComption Posts: 2,063	Re: Land Rover Rebuild hey I have a question.. all this work and you're retaining drum brakes in the front? __________________ '98 2dr XJ '90 Swift GT '81/'79/'77/'75 Blazer/Jimmy/FrankenChev ..Down to THREE!!

November 4th, 2009, 04:02 pm	#22
Land Roving Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 23	Re: Land Rover Rebuild Naw. The kits are prohibitively expensive, and I don't want to take the time to fab up my own. Not yet, anyways. They're ridiculously easy to access, to if I want to fit discs later, it's not too hard to do. That said, I've had no trouble with properly cared for drums.

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