Any ideas on making or altering a parking brake cable?

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  1. #1
    Superfly lars's Avatar
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    Any ideas on making or altering a parking brake cable?

    We're trying to hook up the emergency brake from an 8.8 to my sister-in-law's Cherokee. Is there a method or local shop we can use to attach a regular drum brake cable end (the kind with the cylinder clamped onto the end) to a disc e-brake lever that uses cables with loops, as shown in the attached photo?

    One option is to bent the XJ's e-brake cable into a loop and fasten it with cable clamps. I just don't like the idea of a sharp bend in the cable being used to pull on the parking brake lever.

    ...lars
    Too Much Driver For Car

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  3. #2
    Got Arbutus? AndrewH's Avatar
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    Re: Any ideas on making or altering a parking brake cable?

    well i might as well ask....what does the other end of the 8.8 cable look like?

    i guess another way is to pull out the m200. i am not sure if it would work but you know the little ebrake cable coupler (half way down the inside of a yj frame rail). it's only purpose is to join the two cables together right? so i was thinking you could modify this little piece of steel and zap it to the 8.8 lever so you could use the old cable with the clamped on ends.

    anyway just an idea, no idea if it would work
    Last edited by AndrewH; October 25th, 2002 at 10:30 am.
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  4. #3
    Superfly lars's Avatar
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    Re: Re: Any ideas on making or altering a parking brake cable?

    Originally posted by AndrewH
    well i might as well ask....what does the other end of the 8.8 cable look like?
    Standard barrel connector like you'd find on any parking brake cable from a drum system. If the 8.8's passenger side ebrake cable was a little longer, we could probably hook it up to the XJ but as it is, it is too short. Hmm...I suppose finding a single long-side cable from another Explorer would work, though.


    i guess another way is to pull out the m200. i am not sure if it would work but you know the little ebrake cable coupler (half way down the inside of a yj frame rail). it's only purpose is to join the two cables together right? so i was thinking you could modify this little piece of steel and zap it to the 8.8 lever so you could use the old cable with the clamped on ends.
    Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. I think the Explorer uses a loop end because of angle of connection changes quite a bit when the lever on the backing plate is pulled. This change in angle might put too much repetitive bending on the cable where it enters the barrel end connector. Hmm...another option cut off that loop end from the Explorer's cable and weld a barrel-end receiver to that loop end. This would take care of the angle of operation ... just not sure if I can properly weld something to it without melting right through.

    ...lars
    Too Much Driver For Car

  5. #4
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    Use the cable that is too short. It has both ends that you need right? I hope so cause if not, I've done a lot of useless typing... What is the extra distance that you need? Record it. You can weld something that small, but you need oxy/acet torches and a small fine tip. Propane also sometimes works in a pinch. You will need to purchase some braising rod, the smaller the better.

    Simply 'braise' 'braize' 'brayze' (spelling?) in the length that you need. It's kinda like soldering. So choose at what point you'll make your cut in the cable that's too short and cut it. Make sure that the section you braise is along a straight-a-away because it won't bend very well. If there is a plastic protective cover, remove it.
    Tape the ends of the freshly cut wires 1" back really well. Mechanic's wire works the best.
    Peel back 1/3 to 1/2 of the individual wires 1" back to the taped spot in the strand.
    Cut them, do this on both sides. Peeling and cutting wires back one by one will prevent the remaining ones from also being bent.
    You're 'splice-in' length should be the extra length that you need, determined earlier, plus 2".
    Now you're ready to braise. But I suggest a little practice first. Heat the wires to just below the point where they go red. Feather the flame on and off the wires to keep their tempurature up. Add braising rod, it'll look like liquid gold going in. It's a pretty quick process. You're splice length should also be taped, peeled and cut to make it look neat as the wires should just 'lie' in together.

    other notes
    -If you heat your wire too much, past cherry red, you alter it's molecular state and make it brittle
    -if your slplice piece is short, it'll want to unravel. If you only need like 3 inches or something, don't cut it to your needed length right off the bat. Only cut and prepare one side of your splice wire. Once it's braised on well to the wire going back into the truck, measure the length you need, cut and prep it and then braise that one in.
    I could fax you some pictures if needed.

    And now after reading your posts again I just confused myself. Shoot. You could also make yourself a little barrel bullit thing with the shank of a bolt. Drill two holes the size of your wire @ 90degrees from each other. Put some braising over the area you wanna cut (to keep it from birdcaging) and cut. Then grind (or file like I did the other week for 45 minutes when I was out on ski lift towers cause the end I had was too blunt to fit in the Tirfor) a nice round tip on the end of your wire cable. Put through the hole in the bolt shank. Fill with braise. Then lastly, cut your bolt shank to the proper size. I could draw that one too.

    enough
    Hope some of this helps in any manner
    Steph

  6. #5
    Basic Baboon CJ's Avatar
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    I'd also suggest looking for cables off of a full-sized truck. The Explorer 8.8" axle should use the same cable ends as an 8.8" in a full-sized. You might find longer pieces there.
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  7. #6
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    Ive made my own cable before. I made the small cylendars from brass with a hole drilled down the center for the cable to go through. Then i pushed the cable through so that it stuck out at the end a little bit, then i pinched it a little so it wouldnt move. Then i folded the end of the cable evenly around the end of the brass cylendar to ensure that the cable wouldnt pull through, and then i brazed it at both ends. It worked good for me, but if your still worried it'll slip you could cross drill the cylendar and fill the hole with braze. The cable i used i just happened to find a roll of in my grandpas garage, it was the same size as the original.
    82 camo Toy, 4 in. lift, custom rear springs, braided lines, Breeze shackles,92% new paint top & bottom,Herculined,alarmed,hand throttle,half snorkle,c.b.,camocanopy, fixed the tick tick tick and multi-coloured smoke,new frame from cab back,and it still finds ways to pi** me off!

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