MIN. lift for 33's on 1st gen pathfinder?

[Parnelli_001]

what am i looking at for 33s? probably 3inch body and ford rear coils and torsion crank front? or is she still gonna scuff on flex and such? for me its hard to justify a $1000 lift kit for an IFS only to gain a little in actual ground clearance, so i am looking at other options. are the 30% stiffer torsion bars worth the price? any good dealers of this equipment found in BC?

[yoshi]

On my pathfinder i cranked the torsion bars up lots. I took the 2 bolts on each A-arm out and replaced it with little bit longer ones then used like 4 or 5 washers(per bolt) as spacers too keep my camber alined on the front tires. in the back i had old chevy coils that were stiffer then stock nissan coils that i put in.

That with a 3" body lift and inner fender trim worked great for 33" tires

and only cost.

$120 body lift
$15 metric bolts and washers
$20 auto wrecker coils

[Parnelli_001]

now that sounds redneck, i LIKE IT... once i grab the coils you'll see me with that setup soon. lol

[yoshi]

don't forget to disconnect all the sway bars. LoL

[Parnelli_001]

disconnect what sway bar? front was the first to go about a year ago, rear i might need to fab something for... sounds like we are on the same redneck wavelength

[chrizza]

hey guys, i got a pathy too, i want to also stick some 33's on it, but i require the lift first. I am pretty much an amature with this lifting stuff, so just a few questions.

How much did you crank the torsion bars? and The A arm bolts, whered you get longer ones to replace them?

As for the chevy springs, How do i swap these in, Do i just remove the nissan ones and stick em in place? and thats it? Is there anything i need to do to it before?

Thanks for the help

chris

[Parnelli_001]

torsion crank depends on what a-arms you end up getting/fabbing. if you dont touch the suspension but crank the torsion bars up 1-1.5" your ride will be stiffer but your front with a little less down travel. if you crank your front to fit 33s,,, help me out here, 4-5" crank?? if thats possible your front wont rebound at all, ride will be crap, tires will disappear in front of your eyes.
for the rear, i believe its ford coils you get, out of the front of a v-6 f-100 is ideal and that is what, 3" of lift? longer shocks and coils and your set for the rear, just the front is the toughy.
i just touched on these subjects because i havent done either yet, maybe someone who has been there and got the t-shirt will shed more light?

[Dean Neumann]

When you do the 3" suspension lift you also need to check that you have enough slack in all the lines that go from the chassis to the axles or wheels so that they don't bind. That means your brake lines, emergency brake cable, axle vent tubes, etc. must all be long enough to remain slack at full suspension droop or maximum rear axle articulation after lifting it 3", and if they bind you need to replace them with longer lines or install limiting straps.

Similarly, when you do the 3" body lift you need to check that you have enough slack in all the hard and soft lines that go from the body to the chassis so that they don't bind. That means the steel brake lines, the shift linkage, the fuel lines, the gas filler neck, the radiator hoses, the heater hoses, the steering column, etc. If they aren't long enough to reach you need to lengthen them.

If you choose to go "redneck" and put bolts and a bunch of washers in your A arms to correct the camber, be aware that ICBC can consider this a safety-related steering & suspension modification and may not cover you if you have an accident as a result of anything related to your steering or suspension.
A better option is to spend the money and buy aftermarket control arms from a reputable supplier that warrants their product as being specifically designed to correct the steering geometry with a 3" suspension lift.

[Parnelli_001]

thanks dean, i was hoping you would chime up, did you go to that nissan event in alberta last weekend?

[Dean Neumann]

nope, didn't drive 1000 km last weekend to go to a truck show :-)

[clenchedtuna]

We had the Nissan Weekend open last week...was there another event in Alberta?

The 1st annual Nissan Only was a blast. Fantastic trails, (only a few flops on the difficult run,) but the stockers and slightly modified runs were great too. Had a blindfold course run which was humerous to drive and spectate and a night run which was also alot of fun. The write up will be in Canada 4WD in the next few months.

Dean, did you get the t-case gears?

[Dean Neumann]

nope... transfer case gears don't even make it into the the top 5 on my to do list. I'll do a bunch of other stuff first, including that long travel bulletproof IFS.

[Bill]

Originally posted by Dean Neumann
If you choose to go "redneck" and put bolts and a bunch of washers in your A arms to correct the camber, be aware that ICBC can consider this a safety-related steering & suspension modification and may not cover you if you have an accident as a result of anything related to your steering or suspension.
A better option is to spend the money and buy aftermarket control arms from a reputable supplier that warrants their product as being specifically designed to correct the steering geometry with a 3" suspension lift.

A similar method, with the use of shims is used to align many different vehicles. I wouldn't consider it to be unsafe unless you're talking like 1/2" or more.

[yoshi]

If your so worried about getting in an accident and having washers in the a-arm bolts you shouldent be driving at all or better yet dont hit anything . and if we all were rich we wouldent need to find ways of lifting the pathy for cheap