ARB fridg vs odyssey 2150

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  1. #1
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    ARB fridg vs odyssey 2150

    HI all, I recently installed an odyssey 2150 (http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc2150.htm)

    I am very disappointed by the result on my ARB fridg, on hi setting on heavy use (car warm, opening the fridg frequently basically the compressor running full time) I only get about 4-5 hours before a red light start blipping
    on the lo setting, I get about 12 hours

    I read on the arb pdf that when the battery protection kicks in, the green light should turn orange and the red light stat blipping. In my case I think only the red light flash (blip), and the other light shows green. Cant find nothing at ARB about that...
    http://arbusa.com/uploads/PDF/newPro...SalesGuide.pdf

    Average power consumption at 37°F cabinet temperature, 90°F ambient
    temperature*
    ARB 50QT 1.35 Amps/Hour

    Odyssey 2150 has: Reserve capacity: 205 minutes on 25amps
    If I use about 5 amps when the compressor is running, I should get 1000 minutes or about 17 hours...

    I see on arb pdf that the safety at low on the fridg kicks in at Low 10.1 volts

    wondering how much capacity the odyssey should give me before dropping under 10.1 volts, should it be more than 90% discharge?



    I got all my stuff to install a 2nd odyssey, next question will be should I put them simply in parallel or should I install my 500 amps solenoid on the ignition to protect 1 of my battery?

    do you guys think that with 2 odysseys in parallel, discharged to 10.1 volts, should be strong enough to start my FJ?

    thanks!
    Originally Posted by Tmax:
    now please enough with the drama for fuck sake

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  3. #2
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    Prince Rupert,BC
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    Re: ARB fridg vs odyssey 2150

    My suggestion is to move any auxiliary stuff (winches, lighting, stereo, inverters, VHF's, etc., and fridges) to a separate isolated deep cycle battery and leave a main one for the engine only.
    '98 4Runner SR5, V-6, 5-speed, 35" Baja Claws, E-Locker, 4.88 Yukon Gears, 3" Susp Lift, 3" Body Lift, 180 amp ALT,
    Elbow mod, Deckplate Mod, "D" gasket mod, 22" Magnaflow, 67" TG Sliders, 8500lb Portable Winch Mod, Airlift Bags

    Next on the list: Redo the Cargo Area


    My Build Thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/138650-swede-s-build-thread.html

  4. #3
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    Re: ARB fridg vs odyssey 2150

    found out the problem with the fridg is due to lower voltage at my 12v socket... I am gonna rewire it with heavy gage... (arb offer a rewiring kit too)
    as for the setup, ill put my fridg on medium (11.4v) and just run everything in parrallel to have maximum charge

    when ill reconnect my rtt heat exchanger, I might add a protection on it too, or a battery monitor... http://compare.ebay.com/like/3211489...Types&var=sbar
    if I ever face any problem ill install my 500 amps solenoid...
    Originally Posted by Tmax:
    now please enough with the drama for fuck sake

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  6. #4
    Registered User
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    Prince Rupert,BC
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    Re: ARB fridg vs odyssey 2150

    You're kind of flirting with disaster this way though. I would definitely get set up with the isolator and dual battery system. I'd also suggest avoiding the 12 volt socket for the fridge too as the currant draw from the fridge will vary and the light gauge wire that is used for the plug may not have the capacity to handle the draw. This may be the reason for the voltage drop through that circuit. Better to have a dedicated circuit for the fridge with the appropriate sized cable and fuse for the currant load. Nice to have peace of mind instead of worrying about if your rig will start or not too with the dual battery set-up.
    '98 4Runner SR5, V-6, 5-speed, 35" Baja Claws, E-Locker, 4.88 Yukon Gears, 3" Susp Lift, 3" Body Lift, 180 amp ALT,
    Elbow mod, Deckplate Mod, "D" gasket mod, 22" Magnaflow, 67" TG Sliders, 8500lb Portable Winch Mod, Airlift Bags

    Next on the list: Redo the Cargo Area


    My Build Thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/138650-swede-s-build-thread.html

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