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rear end yoke removal/install

10K views 21 replies 5 participants last post by  juniorbink 
#1 ·
broke my yoke today :cwm30: running on front wheel drive. im guessing this has not only happend to me. monday ill be getting the yoke. any tipps, suggestions on taking int out, and putting the new in. my old yj had a bolt in the middle to take it off. im hopping the new rigg does to 05 tj dana 35 rear. thank :beer_cheers:
 
#2 · (Edited)
broke my yoke today :cwm30: running on front wheel drive.
Why or how would you be driving a TJ in FrontWD?

05 tj dana 35 rear. thank :beer_cheers:
Which yolk did you "break" and how?

my old yj had a bolt in the middle to take it off. im hopping the new rigg does to
There is a pinion nut to remove, which should probably be replaced too btw. You will need a breaker bar or an impact wrench and a really big socket.

Use a puller to remove the yolk , dont try to hammer it off you may damage the bearing.
Don't hammer on the yoke to get it started when installing or you will hammer the pinion into the ring gear...:shakehead:
 
#3 ·
the rear shaft is droped, just useing front end. i broke it on the water fall at eagle. i broke the yoke coming out of the rear end, the little notch that hold the clip in. only have it on one side, so theres no support for the ujoint :cwm30:
 
#5 ·
Yep, s'pose to be a good mod, gotta be careful not to over-tighten the u-bolt though as it will 'squash' the u-joint cap.
 
#6 ·
you will need to get a new crush sleeve (collapsible spacer) and oil seal too if it is D35.
below is a copy/paste from the serivce manual, it is very techie, but the job can be done at home, only major is getting the pinion torqued to spec.. might be worth the hour labour it will cost to get it done right though.

COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove rear brake drums.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove propeller shaft from the yoke.
(6) Rotate pinion gear three or four times.
(7) Record torque necessary to rotate the pinion
gear with an inch pound dial-type torque wrench.
(8) Hold pinion yoke with Spanner Wrench 6958
and remove pinion nut and washer.
(9) Remove pinion yoke with Remover C-452 and
Flange Wrench C-3281 (Fig. 27).
(10) Remove pinion shaft seal with a pry tool or a
slide hammer mounted screw.
(11) Remove front pinion bearing using a pair of
pick tools to pull the bearing straight off the pinion
gear shaft.
NOTE: If bearing becomes bound on pinion shaft,
lightly tap the pinion shaft with a rawhide/rubber
hammer.
(12) Remove the collapsible spacer.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new collapsible preload spacer on pinion
shaft.
(2) Install pinion front bearing.
(3) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 28).
(4) Install yoke with Screw 8112, Cup 8109 and
Spanner Wrench 6958 (Fig. 29).
(5) Install yoke washer and new nut on the pinion
gear. Tighten the nut to 271 N·m (200 ft. lbs.).
PINION SEAL (Continued)
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease
pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never
exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque
or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible
spacer must be installed.
(6) Using yoke with Spanner Wrench 6958 and a
torque wrench set at 475 N·m (350 ft. lbs.), (Fig. 30)
slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments
until the rotating torque is achieved. Measure
the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing
the collapsible spacer (Fig. 31).

NOTE: If more than 475 N·m (350 ft. lbs.) torque is
required to crush the collapsible spacer, the spacer
is defective and must be replaced.
 
#8 ·
looks like a job :shakehead: but all ive got to do is replace the yoke. ive talk to a few other about this, theyve said to get a yoke puller, and 11/8 socket . pritty much what bobby b was saying at the top. just have to find the puller ?? lordco candian tire. anyone else you guys no of ? im guessing snap on,mack but i dont think i need it too fancy :beer_cheers:
 
#11 ·
Sorry took so long to reply. Just trying to come to my sences if its realy worth fixing, or just put out the cake for a dana 44. That would be the smart way.
 
#14 ·
now when i do this. what would be the proper amount of torq to crank it on. no impact gun, just a torq wrench. owlman manual said 350lbs.. seems kinda heavy. talk to JTC he was saying there may not be a crush sleve in it ?? anyone out there no thanks its a stock 35 on a 05 tj :beer_cheers:
 
#15 ·
ok. I installed the new one. not a stock one, the new one has u bolts. it ran good at first but, now it vibrates like hell!!!! sh?t be hopping off the dash. maybe i never tightned it enough?? or too much??:help:help:help
 
#17 ·
ya it never was. did it in kind of a rush last night. i never set the seal right, so i whent and got a new seal, did it right i hope. drove it around he block seems ok, alot tighter back there. time will see thoe. heres some pics of the upgrade.







if all goes good, ill do it to the front.
 
#18 ·
still there. jacked it up, and ran the tires. turns out the shaft coming out of the tcase is F&^%#d... and no wreckers will part with the shaft, only the hole thing.
 
#21 ·
Aint it fun owning a Jeep!! It takes awhile to replace or get rid of
all the weak or badly designed sh*t on 'em, believe me I know. The only Jeep stuff left on my current YJ is the motor and tranny! ( HP HD 44 from a 78 F250 , HP Teraflex D60CRD, Atlas etc.... )
FWIW, the SYE is and excellent mod, it's pretty easy to do ( with the right tools ). I did it myself on my last YJ and was surprised how simple the t-case really is. You will need a new CV driveshaft too, I went to pick a part and pulled a front CV d shaft from an Explorer( think so, cant remember) . The d shaft was $27 and I think I paid $100 to have it shortened and balanced.

Do it!! Dont just throw in a used t-case.
:beer
 
#22 ·
ok. so where would be a good place to get this mod ? ive seen a few on line, like the tom woods kit, that has it all together. thats for 500.00. i emailed pats drive line to see what they have for me. im guessing the best economical way would be to buy the SYE with the used drive shaft, then cut it. thanks :beer_cheers:
 
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