View Full Version : reamer for chevy 1 ton tie road ends
bigjeep95
September 15th, 2002, 10:29 pm
Does any body know exactly what reamer I need that would have the same taper as the 1 ton rod ends. If so were is the best place to get one....part #???? Thanks
Dan
September 15th, 2002, 10:43 pm
Snap On Tools carries the exact tool you need. I dont remember the part number off hand though.
Its around $80 I think.
AndrewH
September 15th, 2002, 11:44 pm
snap-on parts # r121.
it is the 1/2-1" reamer
lars
September 16th, 2002, 09:32 am
Originally posted by AndrewH
snap-on parts # r121.
it is the 1/2-1" reamer
I think you mean 1.5" / foot. BTW, that reamer works but not very well. I think a proper, tapered spiral cutting bit would work better than that cleaning reamer from Snap-On. Of course, the correct bit would cost $$.
...lars
desteurm
September 16th, 2002, 05:11 pm
You may want to try a machine tool supplier for a proper cutting bit as long as you know the taper...it might be common angle like a morse taper!
www.kbctools.com
www.thomasskinner.com
Here is a sheet that details various reamers that are meant to cut not clean...
http://www.unionbutterfield.com/UB/prindex.htm
strong_like_tractor
September 17th, 2002, 10:49 am
The problem with machining the taper in with say a tapered endmill is the set up. If you were machining just arms it isn't that bad but if you had to set up knuckles on a mill it would be a PITA, plus you would still have to ream it to get a nice surface finish.
JP
desteurm
September 17th, 2002, 06:36 pm
I wasn't suggesting a tapered end mill, I was suggesting that a proper reamer would work better in a drill press with some cutting fluid and a strong steady clamps to hold the knuckle in place. Also the cutting tools for special apps like this might be chaeper and more commonly available at a supplier that specializes in cutting metal not making crescent wrenches.
Dan
September 17th, 2002, 11:04 pm
I think Lars is the only one who had trouble with his reamer. Four people have borrowed mine and never had any complaints.
NOYFB
September 18th, 2002, 04:13 pm
Originally posted by Dan
I think Lars is the only one who had trouble with his reamer. Four people have borrowed mine and never had any complaints.
I also had troubles with the snap on reamer, I wrecked 2 of them doing 4 holes, but snap on should replace them for free.
desteurm
September 18th, 2002, 05:58 pm
Originally posted by NOYFB
I also had troubles with the snap on reamer, I wrecked 2 of them doing 4 holes, but snap on should replace them for free.
Snap on should stick to making wrenches not cutting tools...
AndrewH
September 18th, 2002, 06:04 pm
well i pooched my reamer (going to call snap-on about that). the weirdest thing is it doesn't look at all damaged but it will not ream out a hole anymore.
ps, i used the reamer in a drill press and did not clamp the steering arm onto the plateform. according to machining experts you should not clamp the part down because the reamer will center the part by itself
desteurm
September 18th, 2002, 06:38 pm
You can clamp the part once you have it centered, it doesn't take that much skill to start reaming and then lock the part in or one could hold it in a good size vise that can slide around on the table. I cant remember the last time I saw a machining center machine or ream a hole with out the part positioned in place and clamped. The snap on reamer is not designed for machine use, it is a hand reamer...the edges are dull from being run too fast, not enough cutting oil or too much non cutting (rubbing) and not enough feed to make large enough chips to allow the heat to disipate from the cutter. Cast iron can be hard on cutting tools...for $80 dollars you could by a brazed carbide or carbide tipped reamer that wont dull like the POS high speed steel reamer that snap on supplying, talk to people that specialize in cutting tools for machine shops and see if they have one that will match the taper GM uses on the tie rod end...
P.S. don't tell them you were using in a drill press they might just say too bad.
Is this the reamer you are using, if not what is the part number?
lars
September 18th, 2002, 07:05 pm
Originally posted by desteurm
Cast iron can be hard on cutting tools...for $80 dollars you could by a brazed carbide or carbide tipped reamer that wont dull like the POS high speed steel reamer that snap on supplying, talk to people that specialize in cutting tools for machine shops and see if they have one that will match the taper GM uses on the tie rod end...
I'd like to know where you can buy one for that price. Any suggestions? KBC?
Is this the reamer you are using, if not what is the part number?
That's the fargin' bastitch! Snap-On R121
...lars
desteurm
September 18th, 2002, 09:59 pm
Originally posted by lars
I'd like to know where you can buy one for that price. Any suggestions? KBC?
That's the fargin' bastitch! Snap-On R121
...lars
Hi Lars, can you tell me the taper/foot or degrees and I can see what I can get it for, usually I can get a deal if it will cross over to a morse taper which I am sure it will cross over. My comany uses many machine tooling suppliers for distributors so I can get an inside if it is a common type reamer. Give me the information and I can do the research and get something of higher quality!
Matt
D.O.A
September 18th, 2002, 10:56 pm
reamer snap-on p/n R-121 works very well, we have used it many times on our projects, chuck it in a Drill Press or Half inch drill, a lot of people disagree with its performance, but we have used it dozens of times, also it is easy to go too far, keep checking the taper with the tre, mark it with Tool makers die if need be,.
lars
September 19th, 2002, 08:39 am
Originally posted by desteurm
Hi Lars, can you tell me the taper/foot or degrees and I can see what I can get it for, usually I can get a deal if it will cross over to a morse taper which I am sure it will cross over
1.5" in 1 foot.
FYI, here are some other specs I collected from the 'net:
Big taper = .667-.776 (3/4 and one ton stuff with 7/8 -18, and ES375[
'67-'72 1/2ton & 3/4ton GMC] with 3/4-16 and dog-leg))
Medium Taper = .636-.714 (moog ES150 with 3/4-16) FORD TRUCK F100/F250
61-65GMC TRUCK K1500/K2500 63-66
Small taper (stock jeep XJ) = .531-.675
...lars
strong_like_tractor
September 19th, 2002, 09:12 am
Unfortunatly TRE tapers do not traslate into standard machine tool tapers. A Morse taper is 5/8"/ft, a Brown & Sharpe taper is 1/2"/ft, Jarno tapers are .600"/ft and ANSI self holding tapers range from .502"-.750"/ft. I will call around to a couple of my tooling suppliers and see if they can get automotive chucking reamers.
JP
strong_like_tractor
September 19th, 2002, 09:25 am
Well after a couple of phone calls it seems that the snap on reamer is your only source, unless you want to have a custom reamer made. If you want your steering arms machined for the taper I can set them up on my CNC and do them; unfortunatly I'm not too sure if I can do knuckles due to setup. But if some one were patient enough I may give it a try.
JP
lars
September 19th, 2002, 11:17 am
I think Caine (S.N.O.R.T.) made one by using a woodworking shaper bit (ie: a bit router blade) and grinding it down. Carbide wood cutting bits can be used on steel, can't they? I guess it depends on the precise mix of tungsten and carbide that the bit is made of, doesn't it?
...lars
strong_like_tractor
September 19th, 2002, 11:26 am
I've used chamfer router bits for milling aluminum. One could make a reamer from a HSS "D" bit or carbide bit if they had access to a cutter grinder with large enough collets and diamond wheel (for carbide grinding)
JP
XJPilot
September 19th, 2002, 12:59 pm
This reamer from AFCO racing is a bit pricey, but it's an option...
http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/products/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=8&ClassID=121&SubclassID=565&ProductID=2631
strong_like_tractor
September 19th, 2002, 02:08 pm
That's about right for a chucking reamer of that size/type
desteurm
September 19th, 2002, 06:22 pm
Well some tooling manufacturer must make the tools for Ford and GM and Dodge...maybe a supplier back east can get this...I will check it out.
SLT, who did you call in the lower mainland?
desteurm
September 19th, 2002, 06:40 pm
Originally posted by lars
1.5" in 1 foot.
...lars
Is that Diameter or Radial taper
lars
September 19th, 2002, 09:16 pm
Originally posted by desteurm
Is that Diameter or Radial taper
No clue, although I would guess diameter.
...lars
bigjeep95
September 19th, 2002, 10:20 pm
The snap on type reamer works okay but its purpose is cleaning or deburring. The proper reamer is the one lars is talking about. It has a taper of 1 1/2" per foot or 7 degree reamer. Which info you like take your pick. If anyone knows what part # and where you can locate this reamer I and many others would appreciate it....thanks
ps If a carbide one is available.....that would be WICKED!!!!
desteurm
September 19th, 2002, 10:59 pm
7 DEGREE (1 ½” PER FT.) TAPERED REAMER
(there are quality differences, so shop appropriately)
BC Bronco $60/$110
Afco # 80770 $120
Stock Car Products #R8201 $80
Goodson #TR-216-2 $50
Snap On # R121 $37
I could only find these suppliers online of such a reamer, obviously the Snap On model doesn't work well. This is where I found the info and has links to the mfg...
http://www.deepsoutheb.com/CTRconv.html
I am still determined to find a tool from another source...these prices are way too high, of course the rarity of such a tool is probably why they charge an arm and a leg for them! OUCH
strong_like_tractor
September 20th, 2002, 09:40 am
I called Technicut, Skinner and KBC. I'm sure Sharp Right could make a custom one but it wouldn't be any cheaper then the ones listed above. 1.5"/ft is 7 deg 10 min not just 7 deg, the tapers won't hold properly with slightly wrong angles.
JP
desteurm
September 23rd, 2002, 07:27 pm
Originally posted by strong_like_tractor
I called Technicut, Skinner and KBC. I'm sure Sharp Right could make a custom one but it wouldn't be any cheaper then the ones listed above. 1.5"/ft is 7 deg 10 min not just 7 deg, the tapers won't hold properly with slightly wrong angles.
JP
Angle calculations duely noted...I believe that Johhny @ Sharp-rite has moved all operations to Edmonton for his son to Manage. Is there shop still open on Schoolhouse, I know for sure the shop in Port Kells is history!
Matt
strong_like_tractor
September 24th, 2002, 02:31 pm
I haven't dealt with sharp right for quite a while so I didn't know that they had left
JP
toque
March 26th, 2004, 01:26 pm
So is there anyone with one of these 7 degree tapered reamers that is willing to ream out 3 holes for some $ or beer?
chevys suck
March 26th, 2004, 05:44 pm
i just got an end mill ground to the correct angle in port kells. it was a four flute cutter. it works pretty good but it likes to grab and suck its self in if your not careful because its not a LH helix like a proper reamer should be. if you could find a Lh helix end mill and get it ground to the correct taper this would be your best bet for quality and would last along time
strong_like_tractor
March 27th, 2004, 09:22 am
7 degrees won't quite work right. The proper taper is 1.5" per foot which works out to 7.13*. I'm not saying it won't work but you won't get the right engagement.
JP
chevys suck
March 31st, 2004, 08:57 pm
:metoo yup i wouldnt use a 7 degree cutter on mine .13 of a degree is alot when the taper is that short
mikeyapproved
April 1st, 2004, 03:54 pm
Originally posted by bigjeep95
Does any body know exactly what reamer I need that would have the same taper as the 1 ton rod ends. If so were is the best place to get one....part #???? Thanks
As has already been mentioned, Stock Car Products sells some reamers designed for tie rod and ball joint tapers. This is what they sell them for, is building your own stuff.
Go to www.stockcarproducts.com/susp13a.htm The part# for
1 1/2" taper per ft is part# R8201 at $ 78.50 US Funds.
It works very well, as I have used it many times already.
Reamers are easy to damage.... if you turn one in reverse, you can throw it away... if you jam it in your work, it may break the cutting edges off or shatter. If you leave it laying around, not in it's case, you will bang up the cutting edges etc etc.
So, I can't afford to lend it to out... if you were up here, I would just do them for nothing.... Keep in mind, depth is important! You need to ream to match the tie rod end.
Too deep of a cut and you will bottom the nut before the taper is tight in the hole... Too shallow a cut and you won't get the nut and lock to work...
Mikey.
PS: Use the correct tool, or you might be unhappy with the result?
dogcatcher45822
July 7th, 2008, 01:21 pm
I am in need of a reamer to borrow for a couple of days. If any one could loan it to me i would pay all shipping costs. Thanks
Steven
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