Mid 80's KingCab Pickup.. engine?

[GoStumpy]

I am looking at a mid 80's Nissan 720? Kingcab Pickup, 4x4, and I'm wondering what engine choices it came with?

It has a 4cyl in it, was there only one available?

What is the motor like? This truck has the head off, so I'm thinking something went horribly wrong with the motor... I'm thinkin might as well drop something else in!! Getting the truck for pretty cheap...

What kind of motors can I "bolt in" to this chassis?

The truck is in OK shape, a bit of rust, yadda yadda, but its 4wd and everything else looks to be in good shape, drivetrain, suspension, frame is GOOD, so all it needs is a motor... Even the interior is in good shape!

So what can I do? What would you do? Cheap, that is...

I'm thinking of finding another non 4wd truck and swapping motor? Would that work?

I've never had or worked on a Nissan before, so any help appreciated!

If not here, then maybe a link to some good info?

Thanks!

Here's a pic of what it looks like (not the actual truck)
http://larrychendesign.com/nissan_on_myspace/PC310066.JPG

[Moose good]

Great trucks...good little engines too. I got mine for the tow because it burned through a piston.
This is all going back from memory, but:

The stock engine was a 2.4 l "Z24" engine. The unique thing is that each cylinder has 2 plugs. Just as well, since the engine made its power at higher revs (like any 4banger I guess). The egr and carb are different for 4wd, so are the oil pan (see below) and the oil pressure sender (2wd is just a light, 4wd is a guage). When you're setting the timing, get it to spec, then tweak it to find the 'sweet spot'. The exhaust plugs are retarded about 4 degrees IIRC, but that's a fixed delay in the distributor - you can't adjust that, hence the 'sweet spot' thing. Ignition stuff is about the biggest ongoing expense at tune-up time - platinum plugs and new cables make a noticeable difference.

I rebuilt/restored my '85 in '99/00 and there were loads of engines at the Japanese wreckers in Surrey. The most common swap seems to be a Buick 3.8 with an electric fan. Mounts have to be fabbed but the crossmember stays put for the new tranny mount IIRC. There was one for sale in New West years ago...I still wish I'd taken some pics. I think the limitation on these trucks is both the height and length of the engine compartment.

Ignore ALL of the vacuum diagrams you find that aren't direct from the Nissan manual. These engines have a crapload of emissions stuff on them and both Haynes and Chilton's were wrong for my truck. One of the parts guys at New Pacific Nissan was kind enough to photocopy the correct drawing for me...if you get the truck PM me and I'll try to dig it up.

The running gear is solid, but the tranny....well....it IS an old import tranny after all ! Also, I think the 3.8 is about the only swap that doesn't require reshaping the firewall as well.

In looking at the block, it's REALLY common to see minor cracking around the water jackets. I sent back a few blocks before giving up and rebuilding it anyway. The cracks don't seem to spread any more over time. The easiest way to ID the 4wd engine is the oil pan - it looks like it has another pan welded to the bottom of it at 90 degrees. While the engine is out, replace the gasket in the oil pickup tube and have a good look around the bottom end. To pull the pan off in the truck means dropping the diff and the exhaust if memory serves. In case the guy pulling the engine was a bit of a gorilla, check that the pickup tube isn't kinked inside the bend. While there is a thicker plate welded to the bottom of the pan, I got one tube that looked like the engine had been dropped.

The tailstock on the 2wd and 4wd trannies are different lengths. There is no companion flange on the 4wd trans for the transfer case because it's divorced so you can couple the new powerplant to it by fabbing a new primary driveshaft.


These trucks keep up just fine offroad, but are right-lane-only on the freeway. I remember taking mine down a dry creekbed at Hale Creek one time in bull-low and idling in first gear. The stock ground clearance is an inch higher than comparable Toys and it's just as well because there aren't many options for a suspension lift. Both Fabtech and Skyjacker made a kit, but they might have discontinued them by now.

The skidplates are only a little thicker than tinfoil, so that's something to consider. Despite the smaller fuel tank, definitely get a KingCab if you can. The balljoints take a lot of wear, so check them as well as the upper arm bushings (where the dog bone goes into the arm)

I've still got a cylinder head, bush bar and some other stuff downstairs. PM if you want 'em.