View Full Version : POR-15 questions
still_low
February 3rd, 2008, 04:58 pm
I'm looking into using por-15 to coat my replacement frame for my yj. Anyone here have any experience with it. I plan on getting the cleaner and metal prep solution as well, but not sure how much of everything i would need. I plan on doing the frame atleast, but more than likely the axles f/r and the firewall/ bottom of tub while I'm in there. How far would a gallon go? I'm figuring one of the big cans( 1 gallon I'm assumin) would be enough to do the frame atleast?
Also, while I;m asking, anyone try "hammerite" paint? I seen an article on the web where a guy taped up the holes on his frame, poured a gallon or two of hammerite down the frame rails, tilted the frame everywhich way to make sure it covers all the inner frame. I thought this sounded like a good idea, ,maybe a lil overkill, but I'm already prepping this frame to replace a badly rusted out one, so I figure the more protection the better.
Any concerns, questions or advice welcome. I'm gonna half to wait around until its warm enough outside to paint, but I'd feel alot more accomplished if I had the supplies ready atleast.
Coalsmoke
February 10th, 2008, 03:45 pm
I would liek to try that stuff some time but haven't been able to find a local dealer for it
brian46
February 10th, 2008, 06:30 pm
Last time I was at Mopac they had it, that was a while ago though.
brian46
February 10th, 2008, 06:33 pm
I'm looking into using por-15 to coat my replacement frame for my yj. Anyone here have any experience with it. I plan on getting the cleaner and metal prep solution as well, but not sure how much of everything i would need. I plan on doing the frame atleast, but more than likely the axles f/r and the firewall/ bottom of tub while I'm in there. How far would a gallon go? I'm figuring one of the big cans( 1 gallon I'm assumin) would be enough to do the frame atleast?
Also, while I;m asking, anyone try "hammerite" paint? I seen an article on the web where a guy taped up the holes on his frame, poured a gallon or two of hammerite down the frame rails, tilted the frame everywhich way to make sure it covers all the inner frame. I thought this sounded like a good idea, ,maybe a lil overkill, but I'm already prepping this frame to replace a badly rusted out one, so I figure the more protection the better.
Any concerns, questions or advice welcome. I'm gonna half to wait around until its warm enough outside to paint, but I'd feel alot more accomplished if I had the supplies ready atleast.
Whatever you do, don't get it on your skin or anything else you don't want painted, it doesn't come off. They do make a solvent, but if it dries your sol.
gavman
February 10th, 2008, 06:58 pm
I was just using it today, Don't get the gallon can as one DROP of moisture can ruin it according to the instructions.
I got mine at Lordco including the metal prep which is actually a zinc rich etcher and i believe a big part of the success of the paint.
Get the smallest cans they sell for doing small areas and the like and maybe a 1 litre can for doing the whole chassis.
Keep unused portions in the fridge, yes i mean the fridge.
Other than the above i think it is a great product.
still_low
February 10th, 2008, 07:24 pm
Yah, I was planning on getting it from Lordco too. I've heard all the stories about getting it off, proper prep, etc.. Was thinking I'de need a gallon, if not too. I plan to throw away atleast a gallon inside the frame rails, gonna tape the holes in the frame, pour in paint and rotate it all around hoping for an overkill effect to rust protection. Then would like 2 coats for sure on the frame. I also would like to do the underside of the tub w/ either po515 or something similiar, probably leafsprings, front/back axles, firewall and anything else that looks like it could use it. So 2 gallons seemed leke"atleast" what I would need. But I guess what your saying is I sure be overly concerned about it hardening too fast in the can. Isn't a big gallon can gonna be way cheaper than a bunch of small ones? I read somewhere to store it upside down too, so that any air pockets will end up at the bottom of the can, leaving the good stuff on top.
still_low
February 10th, 2008, 07:26 pm
I was just using it today, Don't get the gallon can as one DROP of moisture can ruin it according to the instructions.
I got mine at Lordco including the metal prep which is actually a zinc rich etcher and i believe a big part of the success of the paint.
Get the smallest cans they sell for doing small areas and the like and maybe a 1 litre can for doing the whole chassis.
Keep unused portions in the fridge, yes i mean the fridge.
Other than the above i think it is a great product.
What did you end up paying for the metal prep and the por15? trying to see if I should go lordco or oder it from their canadian supplier, as they have deals on kits, and combo packs right now on their website. What's your opinion of it? Easy to use? Look good?
gavman
February 10th, 2008, 07:39 pm
What did you end up paying for the metal prep and the por15? trying to see if I should go lordco or oder it from their canadian supplier, as they have deals on kits, and combo packs right now on their website. What's your opinion of it? Easy to use? Look good?
Forgot the price as i bought it awhile ago but reasonable i remembered especially as Lordco is right by my house.
Don't forget it is still a primer and can be left as a topcoat but has poor UV resistance which apparently does no harm to the paint and it's good characteristics but UV will fade the finish.
It is easy to use and goes on smooth but make sure you do the prep well as it has a sheen or is semi-gloss and shows everything underneath.
Wear gloves using it though and you should be OK.
still_low
February 10th, 2008, 08:30 pm
Forgot the price as i bought it awhile ago but reasonable i remembered especially as Lordco is right by my house.
Don't forget it is still a primer and can be left as a topcoat but has poor UV resistance which apparently does no harm to the paint and it's good characteristics but UV will fade the finish.
It is easy to use and goes on smooth but make sure you do the prep well as it has a sheen or is semi-gloss and shows everything underneath.
Wear gloves using it though and you should be OK.
I thought I had read somewhere that the uv "would" actually eventually break the product down. I had planned on giving it two coats of their chassis black topcoat. I was kinda hoping for more of a textured look, any suggestions for something to use between the por15 and my topcoat? Maybe something like durabak, rhino lining, herculiner etc. that would give me a thicker look. I'm probably going too overkill on everything, but I 've got nothing to do except stare at my bare frame and wait for it to get warm enough outside to paint. Kinda easy to get too many ideas in my head, especially when the frame is barely even invisible. Just figured I'd do things right. thanks for the suggestions and opinions so far.
samiwanted
February 10th, 2008, 08:40 pm
why not get it galvanized if you want the inside done too?
still_low
February 10th, 2008, 08:45 pm
for the cost? meh? No where locally on the island to get it done either. Would be nice I guess. Just not really an option this time around I don't think.
Dodgeboy96
February 12th, 2008, 05:42 pm
Love the POR-15. Strongest paint around, works great for frames. The only thing about the POR -15 rustproofer is that you MUST topcoat either with POR topcoat or any other kind of solvent based paint. Anything painted that is exposed to the sun without topcoat turns milky white streaky. Also it doesn't stick very well to smooth metal surfaces, bonds much better to bumpy metal (such as a rusty frame)
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