Off-Road Photography

[Goof]

Ok, I either suck at taking pictures...or there is a trick I don't know. All the pictures I have taken make everything look flat and smooth.

Took my Sami up a 60 degree hil...looked flat.
Through a very rocky creek bed...looked smooth.

Please, tell me the secret of your picture taking ways.

[Joe M]

Try taking them from strange angles. Take a look at the angles they use in 4x4 magazines as well. Picture taking is an acquired skill, you'll get it if you practice it a lot (good excuse to wheel a lot :) )

[Brentolsten]

think of this u could take a picture of something one on flat ground but if u turn the angle of the camera it will look liek there on a 70degree slope.

[lars]

Originally posted by Goof
Ok, I either suck at taking pictures...or there is a trick I don't know. All the pictures I have taken make everything look flat and smooth.

Took my Sami up a 60 degree hil...looked flat.
Through a very rocky creek bed...looked smooth.

Please, tell me the secret of your picture taking ways.

Since you asked, the primary reason is that it probably wasn't a 60 degree hill!!! :D

Well...I thought it was funny.

Ok, the first thing you can do is shoot a profile shot. This accentuates the angle the most, rather than shooting a 3/4 or head/tail-on angle. Your natural instinct is to frame the shot so it aligns the frame with the vehicle -- in other words, you tend to tilt the camera in such a way as to minimize the angle. One way to avoid this is to always look for vertical lines and make sure your view finder is aligned with those verticals.

No vertical lines? No problem, get someone to stand in the shot. Assuming they're not a certain bell ringer from Notre Dame, you should now have a vertical reference line.

Here's an example of shooting the profile of a vehicle to accentuate the angle:
http://www.bc4x4.com/tr/2002/rc/day2-1.jpg

This almost head-on shot was taken on Morningside, at one is unquestionably the steepest, ugliest downhill they have:
http://www.bc4x4.com/tr/2002/rc/day2-21.jpg

Unfortunately, the camera angle doesn't do it justice. In this case, I had no better angle than this. A profile shot was impossible because I was at the bottom of the hill and trees obscured all the other shooting options.

Other useful things to do:

Try to include a photo of the driver's face, especially if the shot doesn't look very interesting or you have no other good angles. Sometimes the facial expression can convey the difficulty of the obstacle. The expressions of on-lookers and spotters can be used the same way.
For that matter, if you are taking photos of 'wheeling trip, remember to include photos of things other than the trucks. Scenery and people (particularly shots that include their faces) are REQUIRED to provide a complete picture of the trip.
Before firing the shutter, look at all four edges of your photo to make sure you're capturing everything the photo needs and nothing more. Too often, we focus our eye only in the center of the photo. If you don't have a suitable zoom lens, you may need to move closer or farther back.
Learn how to pre-focus your camera so when the vehicle reaches the point where it will be most photogenic, you can fire instantly. This is important with digital cameras since they often have a long trigger delay.
In shady areas, particularly when there's a mix of sunlight and shade, use your flash to fill-in the shadow areas. If the sun is behind or directly overhead, you should also use your flash to fill-in shadows caused by harsh backlight or people's hats and brows. This also applies to vehicles; you can use the flash to illuminate the underside of a vehicle, as well as the rocks and other obstacles underneath.
Here's an example:
http://www.bc4x4.com/tr/2002/rc/day2-15.jpg
Even though there was quite a bit of light, I attached a flash to my camera to fill in the intermittent shadows (see the shadows falling across Pat's face) and to illuminate the underside of Pat's Jeep.

Shoot close up and farther back. This way you include the details (close-up) as well as providing the context (farther back). eg: A detail shot of a shredded tire documents the damage. By moving back and photographing the vehicle and the narrow mountain road it is on, you get a full sense of how dangerous the blow-out was.
Learn to use your camera! Pre-focus and flash-on and flash-off are things that everyone needs to know. After that is exposure-lock, but I suggest that read a basic photography book if you want to get into that.


Just remember that good photos are more the result of good photographers, not fancy cameras.


...lars

[Shogunator]

Nice write up Lars, and your last point is the best one. Good photographers and a disposable camera are like Magyver with a used water bottle, a aluminum foil, his swiss army knife and some drano. Compared to someone who has all the gear without a clue how to work it.
Practice makes perfect. You can also learn loads by looking at other peoples work and disecting it (how'd they do that).
Some other examples of what Lars is saying
Here's an OK example of keeping a level plane (using trees as a reference) and getting the drivers face for reaction points. BTW, this is about a 60* slope.

[Shogunator]

Sorry, I'm not cool enough to know how to do multiple pics per post.
Here's another where I was laying down to compensate for the angle of the slope so I didn't get as much of the "flat and smooth" shot. (I know, I know, the truck is unlocked... :clown )

[Shogunator]

second last one... Standing on a knoll about 45' away (got to like the telephoto lens). The actual driving motions instead of posing is also a plus...

[Shogunator]

Nothing more to add, I just like this pic... :D

[1bronco guy]

nice pics!

[Shogunator]

I found one more on my work computer...
I didn't take this one but I know this trail has a decent grade to it. A more powerful flash or auxialry (remote) flash would've helped with the underside detail.

[Shogunator]

nice pics!
Thanks, since my truck hasn't been on the road in a loooooooonnnng time, people take me along just to shoot pics. It's nice to feel needed :rolleyes:

:redneck :D

[lars]

Originally posted by Shogunator
I found one more on my work computer...
I didn't take this one but I know this trail has a decent grade to it. A more powerful flash or auxialry (remote) flash would've helped with the underside detail.
Yup, if you have a flash cord extension or a camera that supports wireless flash, you have the option of holding the flash low, aimed at the underside of the vehicle while your camera is positioned higher up.

One of Dave's shots also shows a lot of foreground which adds depth to a photo. A wide angle lens is particularly good for this (most cameras these days have a wide mode).

The biggest technical problem I see with photos that are submitted to the BC4x4 album (www.bc4x4.com/album) is that parts of the subject (ie: the vehicle) are cut out of the photo because the photographer was standing too close for the focal length used.

And like others have mentioned, don't feel that you're "cheating" by tilting the camera to emphasize the angle. These aren't crime scene photos you're shooting. Your photos are an attempt to capture what happened so if some lean will help, then by all means go for it. Just don't over-do it or else it becomes distracting. The viewers first reponse should be, "wow, that truck was at quite an angle!" rather than, "wow, that photographer really tilted the camera!"



...lars

[Jordan]

Originally posted by lars


This almost head-on shot was taken on Morningside, at one is unquestionably the steepest, ugliest downhill they have:


Your photography wasn't the only thing that stunk at that obstacle. :D

One year (can't remember when), there was a dead deer near that nasty, long downhill....and boy was it ripe.

:redneck

[CRS]

Originally posted by Shogunator

Thanks, since my truck hasn't been on the road in a loooooooonnnng time, people take me along just to shoot pics. It's nice to feel needed :rolleyes:

:redneck :D
Or at least to break birf's, and hold the Haynes Manuel!!!:laugh

[Greg W]

I'll add my 2 cents in. I find it also helps to take the pictures from low to the ground. If you can, lay down on the ground and look "up" ant the truck. I think this works especially if you're on top of above an oncoming truck...

[Chris S]

When photographing a moving vehicle always try to leaad the vehicle slightly. In other words, have more empty frame in front of the vehicle than behind. A centered rig looks stationary even if it is moving.

The shot of the Mog(?) at morningside shows this. It looks like it is moving just because it has someplace "in frame" to go.

Also be aware of light angles and backgrounds. If you have a choice keep the light almost but not quite behind you.

One of my favorite pose shots:

http://members.shaw.ca/mudpup/tj/tjpics/sky1.jpg

[DMMcG]

And to break up the monotony, don't be afraid to experiment a little by cropping the shot to accentuate the focal point of the photo.

Eg: flexing through an awkward bit of trail; nothing too fantastic or daring, but a good opp to capture articulation. Cutting out some of the extraneous stuff can sometimes add a bit of drama to an otherwise mediocre obstcale.

http://www.hot4x4.ca/albums/album55/aaq.jpg

http://www.hot4x4.ca/albums/albun01/abh.jpg


When shooting someone coming through water, it's nice to catch the pressure wave cresting in front of their vehicle. It makes the water look all the deeper and more challenging. Of course, having snow-covered bows to frame the shot adds a little too. And having said that, there are all kinds of opportunities to "naturally" frame the focal point of a photo when you're on a trail.

http://www.hot4x4.ca/images/DMMcG-tr/hutt/image09.jpg


As Lars states, backing off from a shot when you're stuck downhill (where there isn't room for a profile angle) can sometimes help tell the tale of what the trail is truly like - it at least gives some sense of perspective, even if you can't slap the viewer with the acute slope of an obstacle by showing a 45* angled truck across the frame.

http://www.hot4x4.ca/images/DMMcG-tr/hutt/image35.jpg

Lighting is of critical importance with most digital cameras. You can get some spectacular colours and crisp surreal textures with morning/afternoon light (or diffused light on cloud covered days), but midday in the sunshine will almost guarantee disappointment. If you've got a manual over-ride for the "exposure" (sort of a pseudo f-stop) on your digital camera, learn just what it can do for you. Experiment with it so that you can guesstimate whether you'll be able salvage anything at all from the black abyss of shadow that drapes everything below the hood of a vehicle in bright, overhead sunlight...a fill flash helps, but most flashes don't project far enough to make enough of a difference in my experience (unless you've got a separate handheld skookum unit).

[Woke Up Dead]

Also, I find it looks good when the most interestig object in the picture is not quite in the center. The Mog picture, and the last picture above illustrate this well. I use the off-center technique for most of my photos, not only 4x4, and I'm usually quite happy with the results.

[Joe M]

Take a look in the Warn product guide. I got mine for free from Sport Trucks and it's packed with really amazing full page pictures. It's really a must see, makes you want to wheel big time :) Shows some interesting angles to accentuate the ruggedness of the trails.

[SwAY]

I am very interested in photography, I was my schools yearbook photographer for 3 yrs, so I know what Im doing. Ive yet to take pics of offroading but would love to start, so if anyone needs someone to take pics let me know!!!:D

[Boggin toy]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SwAY
[B] so I know what Im doing.

Yea we'll see who take's the "crappy pic's":p;)

[white knight]

Interesting post with lots of good info.

I definately find with a digital , you must anticipate the action shots or you will miss them. In the shot below I clicked the camera before he took the jump.

http://www.whiteknight.ca/gravediggerF.jpg

As for height, it is always way steeper than the pic will show. It is really hard to grasp the actual angle. That's why I combine the pics and video :)

No matter what, it's a lot of fun :D

[Shogunator]

Take a look in the Warn product guide

Speaking about the Warn Catalogue, how is this shot for their "new TJ Look Samurai fender flares"?

[jo-jo]

Start learning how to climb trees or buy a helicopter so you can dangle from a rope to get the right perspective.

Sorry, but after Lars, I didn't really have much else to say. :clown

http://island4x4.com/forum/doomicon/doomiconjojo2.jpg
Doomicon Nov.17th 2002 "Oh baby...WELD-IT"...

[lane smith]

Always take more film than you think you will need.

Always take more pics than you think you need. You can always just chuck the ones that didn't turn out, or give any duplicates away to friends or family.

Sometimes taking the same pic but from different angles/or close up and then further away, can let the viewer get a better feel for what was involved, too.

#1-close up:

[lane smith]

#2 further away:

[lane smith]

the "trick the eye" shot

"oh no, my Sammy has been crushed":(

[lane smith]

"maybe not":D

[SwAY]

Originally posted by Boggin toy
[

Yea we'll see who take's the "crappy pic's":p;) [/B]

lol :rolleyes: I never said you took crappy pics, i like them (keep sending me more:D)
sigh...always twisting my words around lol:laugh :rolleyes: :D