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4Lo
December 15th, 2006, 10:12 pm
Just picked up this POS for $100. Stay tuned for the work ahead.

Demolition starts tommorrow bright and early. Keep in mind I just got a new (to me) welder last weekend so I haven't even practiced my welding yet. I will be running some practice welds on some scrap iron until I am confident that my work is safe.

pics....

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_71_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_72_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_73_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_74_full.jpg

4Lo
December 15th, 2006, 10:15 pm
Im going to narrow the frame from 77" (just over 6ft) down to roughly 4ft. My goal is to end up with a finished trailer size of 4'x6'. Bigger tires and a new axle are also on the list. I think I can salvage the leafs.

westcoaster
December 15th, 2006, 11:27 pm
Sell this trailer and start from scratch.

Nothing you have on this one really would be transported over to the new one. You wouldn't be saving that much in steel costs to warrant all the changes you are about to do.

overthetop
December 16th, 2006, 12:26 am
:agree: sounds like all you will be using is the metal, new axle, tires, frame?

stihl036
December 16th, 2006, 12:15 pm
Looks like a good score for $100. Sure, you are not going to be hauling a 1ton pickup with it but this could be a good little trailer. It already has a spring over conversion I think you should keep the project.

Rip off the old tent trailer box and cut the frame down to width like in this pic (cut off at the red lines.) Maybe it won't be wide enough for you? It looks like it will be about 4' wide???

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/ivysmommy/TrailerPicture.jpg

Then build a cage/frame on top of the existing frame for your siding. Then you can attach your fenders to the cage. Sorta like in this picture.
http://www.maxidump.com/maxi8.jpg


It is hard to tell but I bet you could just get a larger set of tires and call it good (it looks like there is room, without getting a wider axle)

To give you a better idea of what I am talking about. Here is one we built from scratch a few years ago.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/ivysmommy/Davestrailerinditch7.jpg



You should take apart the hub assembly to check for wear/condition. Princess auto is great for trailer parts.

What is your budget?

Good luck.

Post pics of your progress.


WW

gavman
December 16th, 2006, 02:21 pm
Sell ii or use it as is, not worth the bother of cutting and welding the light guage steel...
Good luck though

4Lo
December 16th, 2006, 04:39 pm
Stihl.....Measures exactle 49" between where you line is on the this side of the trailer over to the same spot on the other side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/ivysmommy/TrailerPicture.jpg

Sell ii or use it as is, not worth the bother of cutting and welding the light guage steel...
Good luck though

Yeah okay.:finger_1:

This is what got done today.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_76_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_77_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_78_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_79_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_80_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_81_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_82_full.jpg

This is my first ever project so if you see something in a photo that needs attention voice up. besides I paid $100 for the trailer and got $20 back at the metal recyclers for the bits of aluminum I stripped off of it.

As far as starting from scratch...well my welding skills are not up to snuff yet so I thought rather than risk major failure on the hwy I would start with a safe frame and build the sides up. Attatching angle on the corners and adding fenders, 12"rims with new tires and replace the bearings. I might get to prepping the frame for a first rough coat of paint tommorrow.

What paint is best for this application???

4Lo
December 16th, 2006, 04:45 pm
Another thing to add, I will only be putting firewood in this thing for camping and mabye put my tin boat on top. The tires that are on there now are garbage. I thought I'd have a few spares for my boat trailer but all three were badly cracked. I'm suprised they didn't blow on my way home last night.

The rear bumper piece you see in the last pic is the next thing to go.

Road Dog
December 16th, 2006, 05:48 pm
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_82_full.jpg
Oh, I understand now. Looks good.

You can't have too many tiedown points on a trailer.

Don't forget the lights -- secret trailer light info (http://198.103.96.121/roadsafety/tp/tp13136/trailer_e.htm)

belmont mild
December 16th, 2006, 09:05 pm
Good welding has to do with good prep work!
Well you prepped that utility trailer good it looks good to go no welding to be done imo... I could have used that exact trailer actually!!!

Looking forwards to seeing your welds:)

4Lo
December 16th, 2006, 09:49 pm
Thanx man. Minimal welding on this puppy. Just angle for the verts and top rail. Then just misc little things to add on after that.

stihl036
December 16th, 2006, 11:14 pm
...Measures exactle 49" between where you line is on the this side of the trailer over to the same spot on the other side

Looks like this project was made to be:beer_cheers:

This is my first ever project so if you see something in a photo that needs attention voice up. besides I paid $100 for the trailer and got $20 back at the metal recyclers for the bits of aluminum I stripped off of it.

They gave you $20 for that scrap? No wonder the crack heads are after that stuff.

As far as starting from scratch...well my welding skills are not up to snuff yet so I thought rather than risk major failure on the hwy I would start with a safe frame and build the sides up. Attatching angle on the corners and adding fenders, 12"rims with new tires and replace the bearings. I might get to prepping the frame for a first rough coat of paint tommorrow.

What paint is best for this application???

Good on you for knowing your limitations at this point, I would have done it exactly like you are doing. The risk to you and other road users is limited. Good call on the bearings, it always surprises me to see overloaded tent trailer conversions with those little tires on the side of the highway, with the bearings red hot.

As far as paint goes, I always use tremclad from the can (easy to touch up,) I normally do about 3-4 coats of tremclad. Some guys I know swear by POR 15 but I have never tried it. Too spendy for me. Most trailers need to be touched up every year or two. Gravel roads are brutal on the paint.

Consider adding a 2" receiver to the back for a bike rack if you are into riding. Good for a recovery point too, if you have to disconnect the truck and trailer. Here are a couple of pics
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/ivysmommy/rearreciever.jpg

The table legs fold up and act as the top of the trailer, just drops into place. My buddy came up with the idea and it's great for camping!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/ivysmommy/DavesTrailerwithkids2.jpg


Keep the pics coming:redneck :cool:

WW

miller
December 17th, 2006, 05:59 pm
Sell ii or use it as is, not worth the bother of cutting and welding the light guage steel...
Good luck though

I think he was getting at the same thing I thought you were going to do....cut and weld the sheet (aluminum) to fit the smaller frame....so it would have been good advice if you were going that route....but your not.

Looks good! Good luck. :beer

vince69007
December 18th, 2006, 09:20 pm
i have a 79 pop up as my current utility trailer, its still got the little door in the side, and the only mod other then new lights and wiring and tires, are a cut out tailgate in the back, adn i put a leg on the front cause the leveling legs arnt too sturdy.. looks good. i might have to steal some of your pics and make mine look like a proper trailer. LoL

overthetop
December 18th, 2006, 09:45 pm
Here is a pic of my trailer.

4Lo
December 18th, 2006, 09:46 pm
Well started to practice running welds on a piece of angle that I found in the garage and well let's just say i need mo practice.

I was going to take pics of my welds but forgot the digi cam at home. By about the 10 or 12th weld I could see the beginnings of a proper bead (dimes) but the problem I am having is while welding circular motion I seem to be pulling the rod to far away from my work and losing the arc.

Also, and I'm not sure if this is normal or not but there seems to be alot of splatter. Is this normal or am I using too much heat and burning away all the flux?? I was using 7014 rod on 1/8" angle iron.

DirtyComanche
December 18th, 2006, 09:50 pm
Stick splatters unless it burns really clean.

Don't worry about it.

4Lo
December 18th, 2006, 09:53 pm
Stick splatters unless it burns really clean.

Don't worry about it. How can I make it burn clean...play with the heat??

If I can limit the splatter that will help greatly in the clean up and pre-paint portion of the work.

DirtyComanche
December 18th, 2006, 10:15 pm
Voodoo magic is the most reliable way.



Nah - it's a feel thing. And keep everything really clean. Rods, surface, etc..

4Lo
December 18th, 2006, 10:40 pm
Anybody know where I can get 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle after 4:30pm in abby to maple ridge area?? Maybe you have some lying around. I want 40 ft but need 28ft. Haney Iron has it but I get off work @ 4:30pm in abbotsford and can't make it to Haney Iron by 4:30pm when they close.

Want it before everything closes for the holidays next week.

vince69007
December 18th, 2006, 11:15 pm
How can I make it burn clean...play with the heat??

If I can limit the splatter that will help greatly in the clean up and pre-paint portion of the work.

buy splatter paste. put everywhere you DONT want to weld. example. doing some bodywork, its great to put on rubber mouldings and such. but under NO circumstance even get a drop of it on your work where you want to weld.

you can wipe the splatter away with a rag. i havnt tried it on glass yet, but right before i get my new windshield i plan on testing it out.

4Lo
December 18th, 2006, 11:21 pm
I think that I need to shorten the arc to minimize spatter. Also i didn't prep the metal properly. I'll try both next time.

belmont mild
December 19th, 2006, 12:07 am
practice makes perfect

crank heat up and control the rod within the 2 pieces of work

try figure 8's
try smaller cccccccccc's
try larger CCCCCCCC's (as if you were doing hand writing with the letter 'c' over and over try that with your rod!)
also watch for the rod closely on the work when its burning you are the driver of the bead...
splatter comes off easy with a flapper disk paste is a mess unless you were using it on body work which you are not...
Industrial man its about prep weld then prep always

Brentolsten
December 20th, 2006, 11:34 am
arc length to far can cause spatter u can drag the 7014 rod along the metal very lightly the flux makes an arc length for u. id personally get some kinda small toaster oven and get some 7018 rods and weld with thows. wat kinda welding machine do u have is it ac or dc. im in school right now for welding wat our teacher had us do at first is run a bunch of straight beed down a peace of plate without weaving make them as straight as u can and about as far apart as the diamter of the stick ur useing then weav inbetween the stringer beads to fill it up. i took a peace of 1/2 in plate did it on both side a bunch of time weld on top of welds and by the end it was over an inch thick

Brentolsten
December 20th, 2006, 11:36 am
oh yeah and u dont need spatter paste

belmont mild
December 20th, 2006, 07:40 pm
those rods i gave you the 70-- rods are the ones that you can crankup, have high strength and low splatter just crank heat know your work and jam the rod in and create circles if its to low it will stick (no weld) if its hot (cranked up) it will burn... Don't worry about keeping the rod to high off the work...

Listen for that sizzle sound thats what your after I have never used splatter paste in my life

that machine is a ac all the rods he got were correct i think one package were dc says on the side wished i kept them needed them for my welding

4Lo
December 20th, 2006, 07:55 pm
Well if time and convenience allows you can have the dc rods back jay.

I will not be using the paste..pretty much made up my mind on that from the first time it was mentioned.

I know the sizzle sound you speak of, no problem there.

I'll try running some more lines on saturday. Bloody x-mas is cuttin into my fab time:welder .....and my pocketbook.:cwm14:

What do you guys pay per foot on average for 1 1/2" angle?? I was quoted $1.30p/ft

belmont mild
December 21st, 2006, 08:56 pm
call me if you want an excellent place to nabb cheap metal will not mention it out loud on this froum board

4Lo
December 21st, 2006, 10:02 pm
Dammit I wish you'd have told me that earlier. Picked up 40' today for $54. 1 1/2 x 3/16.
:shakehead:

Do you remember what # those dc rods are??

belmont mild
December 21st, 2006, 11:32 pm
still a good place to know for of in the future

always nice to save some coin cuz metal marts killing me everytime i go in for a chunk of something

4Lo
December 23rd, 2006, 10:28 pm
Well the shop burned down and everything is a write off.













Just kidding:whiteflag:

Here is what got doner today.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_83_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_84_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_85_full.jpg

belmont mild
December 24th, 2006, 01:02 am
close up shots of those welds:cwm31:

vince69007
December 24th, 2006, 08:20 am
what are your plans for a tailgate?

4Lo
December 24th, 2006, 11:08 am
Welds were grinded down for that smooooth look. Tailgate will be a drop in style.

vince69007
December 24th, 2006, 12:12 pm
in the spring im going to attempt a fold down 2 piece ramp, on my trailer. post some pics of your tailgate when your done it please, cause i need some ideas

4Lo
December 24th, 2006, 01:09 pm
Hey Jay yesterday I was using the blueshied 7018 rods to do most of the work. The problem I was having was that it didn't matter what I had the old miller set at I coulnd't seem to get continuous welds?? I think the rods had some moisture because there would be times when the rod would weld nice then nothing then I'd go two rods and then I'd get another that would lay a nice weld for about 4 seconds. I ended up going back to the 7014's which seemed to work nicely. I know alot of guys say stick to the 7018's but they were giving me nothing but grief.

belmont mild
December 25th, 2006, 08:42 am
70 series rods burn like a firecracker....

I would take the boxs inside always and keep close to a heater or vent i sued to keep mine in the heater room = bone dry all the time

I lamost want that welder back **** the amouhnt of time i had off so far i could have had all the welding done on my runner like front and rear bumper (which would have made me buy a front and back costco winchs) skid rails and then the inside roll bars ****kkkk i should have not sold

4Lo
December 25th, 2006, 11:38 am
Sorry the guilt won't work.:redneck It is a fantastic unit...not too add salt. I figured out that the miller was manufactured in 1992. Remember I asked how old it was??

Brentolsten
December 25th, 2006, 04:34 pm
u also have to think of wat duty cycle ur welder is if it 60% duty cylcle ur good to go all the time if (6mine welding 4min cool down) if its less it wil heat up and not weld as good

belmont mild
December 26th, 2006, 05:49 pm
I got it around 90 ish something but it was a trade off someone? It looked old mang old! Still pushed the best beads!!!

belmont mild
December 26th, 2006, 09:59 pm
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/3104/favuc4.th.jpg (http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=favuc4.jpg)


Was in a rush not even saying how i rushed the trussing of the toy axle but it worked with out kinking the thing.. Here was some of the welds laid down

4Lo
December 30th, 2006, 10:51 am
I have fenders now but I need some advice on how to mount them. I have 1 1/2" angle and a piece of square rod like the one you see in the pics. If I use the rod obviously in the pic it is to low on the frame. I would move it up higher say 1-2 inches. Also I would attatch the rod on the underside of the fender out of sight by cutting a notch in the fender on the trailer side.

Any ideas???:cwm24:


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_88_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_89_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_90_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_91_full.jpg

Brentolsten
December 30th, 2006, 12:47 pm
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/3104/favuc4.th.jpg (http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=favuc4.jpg)


Was in a rush not even saying how i rushed the trussing of the toy axle but it worked with out kinking the thing.. Here was some of the welds laid down


travel speed to fast and ur weld looks a little on the flat side also caused by travel speed. slow down a bit weld should be a little convex and the ripples should be not so pointed. but just my 2cents.

4Lo
December 30th, 2006, 08:19 pm
I have the fenders mounted a little high so I can run a larger tire/ rim size later.

Put a first coat of tremclad primer on today with a second coat to follow later tonight. Should be ready for first top coat of black tomorrow somtime.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_92_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_93_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_94_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_95_full.jpg

belmont mild
December 30th, 2006, 09:06 pm
travel speed to fast and ur weld looks a little on the flat side also caused by travel speed. slow down a bit weld should be a little convex and the ripples should be not so pointed. but just my 2cents.


it was speed welding i ddin't have all night to weld the front axle gussets up.. Just then i was doing the diff cover and blew a hole through it ( really think at that point)
Anyways filling holes gringing filing holes grinding and back to segment welding the gussets i was wanting to go home so i sped up the pace.. No matter they were solid and ground down afterwards anyway:cwm25:

belmont mild
December 31st, 2006, 03:17 pm
http://www.weldingweb.com/
http://www.weldingdesign.com/
4lo for yeah

4Lo
January 1st, 2007, 08:15 pm
More paint pictures.
Painting sux.
I have two coats primer and two coats black. I think I will add 1 more coat of black then call her gooder. Next will be 3/4" plywood for the deck and sides. I am tossing the idea around of 2x6 for the deck?? Only problem is i believe they'd add more wieght compared to the 3/4" plywood. Still have to sort out a frame for the tailgate to slide into. I need 40" of 1" channel for that. I'll also need to add some tie down points.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_96_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_97_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_98_full.jpg

vince69007
January 1st, 2007, 08:41 pm
looks pretty good, and 3/4 plywood will be plenty strong. unless you think you can fit a car in that.

BIGREDRUBI
January 6th, 2007, 12:14 pm
More paint pictures.
Painting sux.
I have two coats primer and two coats black. I think I will add 1 more coat of black then call her gooder. Next will be 3/4" plywood for the deck and sides. I am tossing the idea around of 2x6 for the deck?? Only problem is i believe they'd add more wieght compared to the 3/4" plywood. Still have to sort out a frame for the tailgate to slide into. I need 40" of 1" channel for that. I'll also need to add some tie down points.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_96_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_97_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_98_full.jpg


Painting does suck!! I used that Hippo liner crap on mine. Big mistake, chips off real easy. I counter sunk some tie downs in the floor. I'm happy with them.

belmont mild
January 6th, 2007, 05:52 pm
Painting does suck!! I used that Hippo liner crap on mine. Big mistake, chips off real easy. I counter sunk some tie downs in the floor. I'm happy with them.

hippo liner should not flake off? did you mix the shizit out of it

BIGREDRUBI
January 6th, 2007, 06:38 pm
Oh ya, I washed, de-greased, degreased again, mixed that crap well, followed all directions. I looked good for a while, but with mild use it has started to flake off. Once it looks too bad, I'll strip it and get it rhino lined.

muddhunter
January 6th, 2007, 08:29 pm
Oh ya, I washed, de-greased, degreased again, mixed that crap well, followed all directions. I looked good for a while, but with mild use it has started to flake off. Once it looks too bad, I'll strip it and get it rhino lined.

:metoo I spent 6 hours prepping my box with sandpaper, then washed, dried, degreased with acetone, degreased again, mixed with a power mixer, sprayed with shutz gun, and the stupid Gator Guard still flaked off the first time I put something in the box! not to mention it took weeks to get the stuff off my hands!

Next time it will be LineX for sure.

4Lo
January 7th, 2007, 12:47 am
Yup I had the same problem with the Hippoliner. I painted a boat rack with that stuff ayear ago and it looked great but in less than a week it started to chip off super easy.

Side note......

Here is a little progress from the week. Haven't spent a lot of time on the trailer. I was having troubles trying to figure out a simple idear for the drop in rear gate. Here is what I came up with. Only got the one side done tonight...the warden dragged me out to a movie just when things were gettin going.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_102_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_101_full.jpg

New tires/ rims...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_99_full.jpg

vince69007
January 7th, 2007, 08:13 am
i should take a pic of the trailer my buddy and i built. if you paint the outside of that wood grey, we could park them side by side and you allmost wouldnt be able to tell they were made by different people! mind you we used a caravan rear axle and had it made wider,

stihl036
January 7th, 2007, 10:10 am
.....

New tires/ rims...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_99_full.jpg


Nice work, looks really good!:beer I am glad you went through with it. What is your total cost?

WW

4Lo
January 7th, 2007, 10:14 am
@ last tally $350. I have since bought the wheels carriage bolts and another can of paint.

belmont mild
January 7th, 2007, 11:13 am
not bad so whats next

jasonmt
January 7th, 2007, 12:27 pm
Are you planning on putting more lights such as front and rear side markers and reflectors on it?

The $70 LED kit from Princess Auto is a good choice.

http://www.grote.com/tech/fmvss/gnrl_chart.html

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_99_full.jpg

4Lo
January 7th, 2007, 06:28 pm
Yeah I added front amber side markers today and will add stick on reflective tape later. My focus today was to finish the rear gate..which I did and get all the fab 100% done so I can concentrate fully on the paint. This week will be alll about painting. eeuuuck:cwm14:

Here's a shot with the trailer behind my truck.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_103_full.jpg

westcoaster
January 7th, 2007, 06:41 pm
So now that you have the plywood all nicely cut and drilled. You need to pull it all apart and get some fiberglass resin. Mix the resin up and roll on the plywood. It will soak into the wood and provide a nice tough weather resistant coating that will last for years. I did the lid on my trailer like that Then painted with tremclad. Aside from some fading of the paint it looks the same as when it was finished 9 years ago.....

4Lo
January 7th, 2007, 07:19 pm
Good idea....buuutt it sounds like too much work. I have two coats of primer , two coats of marine paint and then I will finish the outside with 2-3 coats of medium blue tremclad and the inside with black. I'll have like 5-7 coats of paint on the wood by the time I am done.

vince69007
January 7th, 2007, 07:53 pm
So now that you have the plywood all nicely cut and drilled. You need to pull it all apart and get some fiberglass resin. Mix the resin up and roll on the plywood. It will soak into the wood and provide a nice tough weather resistant coating that will last for years. I did the lid on my trailer like that Then painted with tremclad. Aside from some fading of the paint it looks the same as when it was finished 9 years ago.....

Good Idea!! hope i can remember that this spring when i do the same as 4Lo

suzuki2stroker
January 7th, 2007, 10:11 pm
you should have got the trailer galvanized. theres a place in Richmond that does it. i painted my bike trailer, and now i wish i galvanized it.

looks nice though. good work

4Lo
January 14th, 2007, 03:39 pm
I finally got the paint work done on this bad boy and I got it out for it's maidan voyage to the recycle depot today. Here it is completed. Now I need another project. Metal work is addicting. Maybe I will have to put out a search on a project trail rig...hmmmm we'll have to see what the future holds.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_107_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_108_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_109_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_112_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_113_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/2222000-2222999/2222979_114_full.jpg:finger_1:

vince69007
January 14th, 2007, 03:51 pm
Nice Job!!

gavman
January 14th, 2007, 05:15 pm
Turned out pretty nice, good work...
How many hours roughly to complete ?
One thing, i'm not sure that 5 or 6 coats will be any better than three well applied coats, Too much build up of paint will make it softer (unless you are spraying it).